Best of Brussels

The Louvre and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Big Ben and Buckingham Palace in London. For many travelers, it feels as though the choices for a European trip have been preordained, with few surprises in store. Not so for those who head off the beaten track to Brussels, where you can truly discover an authentic and vibrant European city for yourself. Here are some suggestions to start you off on your journey.

The Grand Place, the magnificently preserved central square of Brussels, sets the tone for the entire city. The elaborate buildings which frame the square may disguise the fact, but the Grand Place was originally the great marketplace of Brussels, with each group of artisans having their own guildhall to sell their wares. The Grand Place was almost entirely destroyed in 1695 by French artillery, but was rebuilt to its current splendor over the next few years. Although a very touristy spot today, its sheer beauty easily outweighs the crowds. Walk through the square and the narrow streets around it to be enveloped in the Brussels of old.

Brussels has an antidote to the impersonal, cookie-cutter architecture of the modern metropolis in its extraordinary collection of art nouveau structures. This turn-of-the-century decorative movement, which drew its inspiration from the curved forms of nature, is perhaps more concentrated in Brussels than in any other European city. You can even visit the home of Victor Horta, one of the style’s premier architects, and enjoy his elegant blend of lines and curves integrated into every aspect of the building – from the sweeping, wrought iron staircase to the stained glass windows to the intricate design of the mosaic floor, everything exemplifies the best of art nouveau.

For such a small country, Belgium produces more than its fair share of artistic talent, with René Magritte undoubtedly its most famous modern painter. Magritte became renowned in the mid 20th century for his sharply realist technique in depicting dreamlike images. The Magritte Museum, located right next to the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, contains a dazzling collection of the artist’s works, and will delight children and adults alike with Magritte’s sly humor and mysterious scenes.

Waffles are the ubiquitous Belgian street food – not the thin, bland American food by that name, but a hearty yet sweet delicacy. The American waffles need maple syrup added to give them flavor, but the Belgian waffle has sweetness already built into its caramelized crust. You’re always a stone’s throw away from a waffle stand when walking around Brussels – in fact, their enticing fragrance wafts through many of its streets. Once you’ve tried an authentic Belgian waffle, there’s no going back to the pale imitations found in other parts of the world.

Take a break from the busy streets of Brussels in the Parc de Bruxelles, the largest green space in the Belgian capital. The 32-acre park is surrounded by many grand buildings such as the Belgian Parliament and the Royal Palace. The park, designed in the 18th century, features many charming ponds, fountains and sculptures perfect for a midday stroll. In the summer, the park really comes alive, with free puppet shows throughout the season as well as a free theatre festival at the end of August.

Brussels is not only the capital of Belgium, but is the de facto capital of the European Union. Although many residents of the city may grumble about the bland modern buildings of the European Quarter, where many of the institutions of the EU are located, it’s nevertheless worth going on a tour of European Parliament to gain a better understanding of the 28-country bloc. There is a free, official tour of the multinational legislature, along with the “Parlamentarium,” a set of interactive exhibits on European integration located in the visitors’ center.

In Belgium, comic books are no laughing matter – they are viewed as a veritable art form, and have an entire museum devoted to the medium. The Belgian Comic Strip Center is great fun for all ages, with an extensive collection of original drawings and artifacts devoted to the history of the comic strip (and, perhaps equally important, an extensive gift shop of both comic books and toy representations of favorite characters). Celebrated Belgian creations Tintin and his faithful dog Snowy are especially prominent in the museum.

Perhaps the only Belgian export more widely known than Tintin comics is chocolate; after all, they produce over 172,000 tons of it per year! There is no shortage of gourmet chocolate shops to be found around Brussels, whether they are established brands like Neuhaus, Godiva and Leonidas, or newcomers like Pierre Marcolini. Jean Neuhaus invented the praline – the chocolate shell containing a flavored center – just over a hundred years ago, and Belgian chocolatiers have been perfecting it ever since. You can’t go wrong with these handmade treats in the chocolate capital of the world.