The Picassos of paella are the cooks in La Pepica’s sprawling kitchens. The restaurant faces onto Playa Malvarrosa, but if you approach from the town side, you can walk through those kitchens to the dining room. La Pepica has wowed royalty, movie stars, and—yes, even Ernest Hemingway—with its spectacular seafood and its multiple versions of paella since it was founded in 1898 Order the paella, and don’t hesitate to take pictures when the waiter in striped vest and bowtie brings the pan for presentation before taking it to a station for plating. The place is huge, seating more than 400 diners, yet every table gets impeccable service. La Pepica paella is the benchmark for the dish everywhere else in the world.