As nomads, the Turks were limited by what the land offered and by what could be prepared over a crude open fire, so it's not a stretch to understand how kebaps and köfte became the centerpieces of Turkish cooking. Turkish food today concentrates on simple combinations, few ingredients, and fresh produce.
With access to vast cupboards stocked with ingredients from the four corners of the empire, the palace chefs developed a more complex cuisine. The majority of these recipes, recorded in Arabic script, were regrettably lost in the language reforms. Some Ottoman favorites have made it to us nevertheless, like the hünkar begendi (the sultan was pleased), imam bayaldi (the priest fainted; Barbara Cartland might have likened it to a woman's "flower"), and hanim göbegi (lady's navel), a syrupy dessert with a thumbprint in the middle. These have become staples in many run-of-the-mill restaurants, but true Ottoman cuisine is difficult to come by. Several restaurants in Istanbul have researched the palace archives to restore some of those lost delicacies to the modern table, providing a rare opportunity to sample the artistry and intricate combinations of exotic flavors in the world's first fusion food. The Turkish kitchen is always stocked with only the freshest vegetables, the most succulent fruits, the creamiest of cheeses and yogurt, and the best cuts of meat. But unless you're a pro, like the chefs to the sultans whose lives depended on pleasing the palate of their leader, it takes a lot of creativity to turn such seemingly simple ingredients into dishes fit for a king.
A typical Turkish meal begins with a selection of cold then hot mezes, or appetizers. These often become a meal in themselves, accompanied by an ample serving of raki, that when taken together, form a recipe for friendship, laughter, and song. The menu of mezes often includes several types of eggplant, called patlican; ezme, a fiery hot salad of red peppers; sigara böregi, fried cheese "cigars"; and dolmalar, anything from peppers to vine leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts, cumin, and fresh mint.
The dilemma is whether or not to fill up on these delectables or save room for the kebaps, a national dish whose stature rivals that of pasta in Italy. While izgara means "grilled," the catchall word kebap, simply put, means "roasted," and denotes an entire class of meats cooked using various methods. Typical kebaps include lamb "shish"; spicy Adana kebap, a spicy narrow sausage made of ground lamb; döner kebap, slices of lamb cooked on a vertical revolving spit; patlican kebap, slices of eggplant and lamb grilled on a skewer; and the artery-clogging Iskender kebap, layers of pide, tomatoes, yogurt, and thinly sliced lamb drenched in melted butter. To confuse things a bit, stews can also be called kebaps.
Turks are equally nationalistic over their köfte, Turkey's answer to the hamburger: flat or round little meatballs served with slices of tomato and whole green chili peppers. But even though signs for kebap houses may mar the view, Turkish citizens are anything but carnivores, preferring instead to fill up on grains and vegetables. Saç kavurma represents a class of casseroles sautéed or roasted in an earthenware dish that, with the help of an ample amount of velvety Turkish olive oil, brings to life the flavors of ingredients such as potatoes, zucchini, tomatoes, eggplant, and beef chunks. No self-respecting gourmand should leave Turkey without having had a plate of manti, a meat-filled ravioli, dumpling, or kreplach, adapted to the local palate by adding a garlic-and-yogurt sauce. Pide is yet another interpretation of pizza made up of fluffy oven-baked bread topped with a variety of ingredients and sliced in strips. Lahmacun is another version of the pizza, only this time the bread is as thin as a crepe and lightly covered with chopped onions, lamb, and tomatoes. Picking up some "street food" can be a great diversion, especially in the shelter of some roadside shack where the corn and gözleme -- a freshly made cheese or potato (or whatever) crepe that is the providence of expert rolling-pin-wielding village matrons -- are hot off the grill.
Desserts fall into two categories: baklava and milk-based. Baklava, a type of dessert made of thin layers of pastry dough soaked in syrup, is a sugary sweet bomb best enjoyed around teatime (with ice cream, please), although several varieties are made so light and fluffy that you'll be tempted to top off dinner with a sampling. The milk-based desserts have no eggs or butter and are a guilt-free pick-me-up in the late-afternoon hours, although there's no bad time to treat yourself to some creamy sütlaç (rice pudding). The sprinkling of pistachio bits is a liberal addition to these and many a Turkish dessert, while comfort food includes the irmik helva, a delicious yet simple family tradition of modestly sweet semolina, pine nuts, milk, and butter (okay, I lied about the guilt-free part).
So what's the deal with Turkish delight? Otherwise known as lokum, this sweet candy is made of cornstarch, nuts, syrup, and an endless variety of flavorings to form a skwooshy tidbit whose appeal seems to be more in the gift-giving than on its own merit.
You'll Never Count Sheep Again -- Bus drivers in Turkey abide by an unwritten rule never to eat cacik -- a salad of yogurt, cucumber, and garlic, often served as a soup -- while on duty. The dish is believed to be a surefire, and natural, cure for insomnia.
A Punishment Worse Than the Crime? -- In Turkey, tripe soup, called iskembe çorbasi, or korkoreç, is a widely accepted remedy for a hangover.
Drinks
Rather than the question, "Would you like something to drink?" Turkish hospitality leaps immediately to the "What?" Tea, called çay (chai) in Turkish, is not so much a national drink as it is a ritual. Boil the water incorrectly and you're in for trouble. Let the tea steep without prior rinsing and you've committed an unforgivable transgression. What's amazing is that so many tea drinkers manage to maintain white teeth, and as you'll see, some don't. Tea is served extremely hot and strong in tiny tulip-shaped glasses, accompanied by exactly two sugar cubes. The size of the glass ensures that the tea gets consumed while hot, and before you slurp your final sip, a new glass will arrive. If you find the tea a bit strong, especially on an empty stomach, request that it be "açik," or "opened," so that the ratio of water to steeped tea is increased.
The coffee culture is a little less prevalent (notwithstanding the current siege by Starbucks, Gloria Jean's, and Kahve Dünyasi), but no less steeped in tradition. Early clerics believed it to be an intoxicant and consequently had it banned. But the kahvehane (coffeehouse) refused to go away, and now the sharing of a cup of Turkish coffee is an excuse to prolong a discussion, plan, negotiate, or just plain relax. Turkish coffee is ground to a fine dust, boiled directly in the correct quantity of water, and served as is. Whether you wait for the grinds to settle or down the cup in one shot is entirely an individual choice, although if you leave the muddy residue at the bottom of the cup, you may be able to coax somebody to read your fortune.
There are two national drinks: raki and ayran. Raki is an alcoholic drink distilled from raisins and then redistilled with aniseed. Even when diluted with water, this "lion's milk" still packs a punch, so drink responsibly! Raki is enjoyed everywhere, but is particularly complementary to a meal of mezes.
Ayran is a refreshing beverage made by diluting yogurt with water. Westerners more accustomed to a sweet-tasting yogurt drink may at first be put off by the saltiness of ayran, but when mentally prepared, it's impossible to dismiss the advantages and pure enjoyment of this concoction. A few other typical drinks ebb and wane according to the season. Sahlep is a creamy cold-weather drink made by combining the starchy powder (called sahlep) derived from ground wild orchid tubers with hot milk, and sweetening with sugar and cinnamon. Unfortunately, the drink's popularity and the endangerment of wild orchids are not unrelated, and not surprisingly, the powder doesn't come cheap. So while you can grab a cup off of a street vendor, the drink will most likely have used cornstarch in place of the sahlep powder. Another winter favorite is boza, a thick fermented whip that uses bulgur as its base.
Caffeined Out -- As a result of the Ottomans' second unsuccessful siege on Vienna, many of the army supplies were left behind in the retreat, including sacks and sacks of coffee beans. Believing them to be sacks of animal waste, the Viennese began to burn the sacks, until a more worldly citizen, aware of the market value of the bean, got a whiff and promptly saved the lot. He later opened up the first coffeehouse in Vienna.
A Restaurant Primer
The idiosyncrasies of a foreign culture can create some frustrating experiences, especially when they get in the way of eating. In Turkey, dining out in often boisterous groups has traditionally been the province of men, and a smoke-filled room that reeks of macho may not be the most relaxing prospect for a meal. A woman dining alone will often be whisked away to an upstairs "family salon," called the aile salonu, where -- what else -- families, and yes, even guys, can enjoy a night out in peace and quiet.
Restaurants are everywhere, and although the name restoran was a European import used for the best establishments, nowadays practically every type of place goes by that name. Cheap, simple, home-style meals can be had at a family-run place called a lokanta, where the food is often prepared in advance (hazir yemek) and presented in a steam table. The dining room is generally bare. A meyhane is a tavern full of those smokin' Turks I mentioned earlier, but in the major cities, these have become extremely popular places for a fun and sophisticated night out. Decor in the meyhane is usually as stark as in the lokanta, but not necessarily. A birahane is basically a potentially unruly beer hall.
Now that you've picked the place, it's time to sit down and read the menu, right? Wrong. Not all restaurants automatically provide menus, instead offering whatever's seasonal or the specialty of the house. If you'd feel more comfortable with a menu, don't be shy about asking, and politely say, "Menüyü var mi?" Mezes (appetizers) are often brought over on a platter, and the protocol is to simply point at the ones you want. Don't feel pressured into accepting every plate the waiter offers (none of it is free) or into ordering a main dish; Turks often make a meal out of an array of mezes, accompanied by raki. When ordering fish, it's perfectly acceptable (nay, advisable) to have your selection weighed for cost; if the price is higher than you planned to pay, either choose a less expensive fish or ask the waiter if it's possible to buy only half.
What Is It?
Alabalik -- Trout
Ananas -- Pineapple
Ançuez -- Anchovy
Balik -- Fish
Barbunya -- Red mullet
Beyin -- Brain
Bezelye -- Peas
Biber -- Pepper (kara biber: black pepper)
Bildircin -- Quail
Bonfile -- Filet of beef
Çam fistigi -- Pine nut
Ciger -- Liver
Çilek -- Strawberry
Çorba -- Soup
Çupra -- Sea bream
Dana -- Veal
Domates -- Tomato
Domuz -- Pork
Dondurma -- Ice cream
Ekmek -- Bread
Elma -- Apple
Enginar -- Artichoke
Erik -- Plum
Et -- Meat
Fasulye -- Bean
Havuç -- Carrot
Hindi -- Turkey
Ispanak -- Spinach
Istravrit -- Mackerel
Jambon -- Ham
Kabak -- Squash (zucchini, pumpkin, and the like)
Kalkan -- Turbot
Karides -- Shrimp
Karnibahar -- Cauliflower
Karpuz -- Watermelon
Kavun -- Melon
Kayisi -- Apricot
Kaz -- Goose
Kefal -- Gray mullet
Kiliç -- Swordfish
Kiraz -- Cherry
Köfte -- Meatball
Kuzu -- Lamb
Lagus -- Grouper
Lavas -- Grilled unleavened bread
Levrek -- Sea bass
Limon -- Lemon
Lüfer -- Bluefish
Mantar -- Mushroom
Marul -- Lettuce
Meyva -- Fruit
Meze -- Appetizer
Mezgit -- Cod
Misir -- Corn
Mürekkep baligi -- Squid
Muz -- Banana
Ördek -- Duck
Palamut -- Bonito
Patates -- Potato
Patlican -- Eggplant/aubergine
Peynir -- Cheese
Pide -- Flat bread
Pilaf (pilâf) -- Rice
Piliç -- Chicken
Portakal -- Orange
Salatalik -- Cucumber
Sardalya -- Sardine
Seftali -- Peach
Seker -- Sugar
Sigir -- Beef
Sogan -- Onion
Som -- Salmon
Sosis -- Sausage
Tarak -- Scallop
Tatlilar -- Sweets
Tavuk -- Hen (for stewing)
Tereyagi -- Butter
Ton -- Tuna
Torik -- Large bonito
Tuz -- Salt
Un -- Flour
Üzüm -- Grapes
Yumurta -- Eggs
Zeytin -- Olive
Zeytinyagi -- Olive oil
How Is It Prepared?
Bugulama -- Steamed
Çevirme -- Meat roasted on a spit
Çig -- Raw
Dogranmis -- Chopped
Dolma -- Stuffed
Ezme -- Paste
Firin -- Roasted or baked; oven
Füme -- Smoked
Guveç -- Earthenware dish; casseroles cooked in this pot
Haslama -- Cooked, boiled
Izgara -- Grilled
Islim -- Braised
Kavurma -- Fried or roasted
Kebap -- Roasted
Pane -- Breaded and fried
Püre -- Purée
Rosto -- Roast meat
Saç -- Iron griddle for cooking over wood fires
Sahanda -- Fried
Sis -- Skewer
Sote -- Sauté
Tandir -- Clay-lined oven
Tasim -- Boiled
Tava -- Fried
Drinks
Ayran -- Yogurt drink made by the addition of water and salt
Bira -- Beer
Çay -- Tea
Kayisi suyu -- Apricot juice
Kiraz suyu -- Cherry juice
Maden suyu or soda -- Carbonated mineral water
Meyve suyu -- Fruit juice
Portakal suyu -- Orange juice
Rak(i) -- Alcoholic drink made of aniseed and diluted with water
Sarap -- Wine
Sekerli -- With sugar
Sekersiz -- Unsweetened
Sise suyu -- Bottled water
Soguk içecekler -- Beverages
Su -- Water
Süt -- Milk
Suyu -- Juice
Appetizers
Ara sicak -- Hot appetizers (translated literally, "in the middle hot")
Arnavut cigeri -- Spicy fried liver with onions
Beyin haslamasi -- Boiled brain
Beyin kizartmasi -- Fried brain
Börek -- Flaky pastry, either baked or fried
Cacik -- Salad of yogurt, cucumber, and garlic; often served as a soup
Çig köfte -- Spicy raw meatballs
Çoban salatasi -- Salad of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, onions, and mint in olive oil and lemon
Ezme salatasi -- Spicy relish of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, hot green chili peppers, and onion
Fesuliye piyasi -- White bean with onion salad
Havuç salatasi -- Carrot salad
Hibes -- Spread of chickpeas, red pepper, onion, and yogurt
Humus -- Chickpea purée
Patlican salatasi -- Purée of roasted eggplant (also served warm; also refers to eggplant sautéed with tomatoes and peppers)
Sigara böreg[av]i -- Fried phyllo "cigar" pastry filled with cheese
Soguk mezeler -- Cold appetizers
Su böregi -- Baked phyllo filled with meat or cheese
Talas böregi -- Puff pastry filled with meat
Yalanci dolmasi -- Stuffed grape leaves (no meat)
Yaprak dolmasi -- Stuffed grape leaves (sometimes with meat)
Soups
Balik çorbasi -- Fish soup
Domatesli pirinç çorbasi -- Tomato and rice soup
Et suyu -- Consommé
Ezo gelin çorbasi -- Red lentil soup with bulgur and mint
Iskembe çorbasi -- Tripe soup (also kokoreç)
Mantar çorbasi -- Mushroom soup
Mercimek çorbasi -- Lentil soup
Sebze çorbasi -- Vegetable soup
Meats & Kebaps
Adana kebabi -- Meatballs of spicy chopped lamb grilled on a skewer
Böbrek -- Kidney
Çöp kebabi -- Same as çöp sis
Çöp sis -- Small lamb cubes grilled on a skewer; also called çöp kebabi
Döner kebap -- Thin slices of lamb roasted on a vertical revolving spit
Içli köfte -- Corn or bulgur balls stuffed with minced lamb (boiled or fried)
Iskender kebabi -- Sliced döner kebabi served on pide, tomatoes, and yogurt, and covered with melted butter
Izgara köfte -- Grilled meatballs
Kadin budu köfte -- "Lady's thigh," meatballs of lamb and rice, deep-fried
Karisik izgara -- Mixed grill
Kuzu budu rostosu -- Roasted leg of lamb
Kuzu pirzolasi -- Grilled lamb chops
Sis kebabi -- Marinated lamb cubes grilled on a skewer
Desserts
Asure -- Thick sweet pudding of whole wheat, mixed fruits, and nuts
Baklava -- Flaky pastries soaked in syrup or honey
Çukulatali pudding -- Chocolate pudding
Firin sütlaç -- Baked rice pudding
Hanim göbegi -- Honey-soaked flour pastry
Helva -- National favorite of semolina, sesame paste or flour, sugar, and nuts
Kaymakli kayisi tatlisi -- Poached apricots stuffed with cream
Künefe -- Butter-soaked pastry filled with melted cheese, soaked in syrup
Muhallebi -- Milk pudding
Revani -- Honey-soaked semolina
Sütlaç -- Rice pudding
Tatlilar -- Sweets or desserts
Tavukgögsü -- Sweet chicken pudding
Other Favorite Dishes
Damat dolmasi -- Squash stuffed with ground lamb and nuts
Domates dolmasi -- Stuffed tomatoes
Etli biber dolmasi -- Stuffed green peppers
Gözleme -- Folded savory pancake filled with potato, cheese, or meat
Hunkar begendi -- Eggplant purée topped with lamb cubes (literally, "the sultan was pleased")
Imam bayildi -- Stuffed eggplant (literally, "the imam fainted")
Lahmacun -- Thin crust dough topped with minced lamb, tomato, and onion
Manti -- Meat dumplings topped with warm sauce of yogurt, garlic, and chili oil
Menemen -- Wet omelet of beaten eggs, tomato, and green peppers
Musakka -- Casserole of eggplant, vegetables, and ground lamb
Peynirli tost -- Grilled cheese sandwich (also called tost)
Simit -- Sesame seed-coated soft pretzel
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.