Down by the tiny harbor of Vernazza, look for the restaurant with colorful umbrellas under a pea-green palazzo with laundry drying from its balconies. Postcard setting: check. Gambero Rosso is a long-standing restaurant that delivers classic Ligurian recipes (including some really old-school local stuff, such as the tegame di Vernazza casserole of potatoes, anchovies, and tomatoes, that you won't see on other Cinque Terre menus, but that nonnas in town are still preparing for their families on Sundays). For a cozier meal, eat inside: The dining room has a lived-in warmth, with pinkish-red tones and ancient masonry. If you want to people watch, opt for one of the sidewalk tables overlooking Vernazza's promenade and marina. While the vibe is overall fairly casual, and it's not quite the splurge meal as nearby Belforte, Gambero Rosso has a certain elegance to it. Don't come in full-on sweaty hiking gear or expecting a cheap, quick meal. They do old-fashioned hospitality here, and they'll treat you like family.