Bright blue poles hold up an ancient pressed-tin ceiling above this noisy corner cafe. It’s a scruffy joint, but a great variety of loyal local patrons gather here for genuine Cuban sandwiches: smoked ham, roast pork, Genoa salami, Swiss cheese, pickles, salad dressing, mustard, lettuce, and tomato on crispy Cuban bread. Folks from Miami will fight you on who has the better Cuban—Miami’s do not have salami. There’s a vegetarian version, too. The combination of a half-sandwich and choice of black beans and rice or a bowl of Spanish soup made with sausages, potatoes, and garbanzo beans is a filling meal just by itself. Main courses are led by Cuban-style roast pork, thin-cut pork chops with mushroom sauce, spaghetti with a blue crab tomato sauce, and a few seafood and chicken platters.