When Gunnar Karl Gíslason opened Dill in 2008 in the Nordic House, Iceland was on the verge of collapse. Even after all of his investors dropped out, local producers believed in him enough that they were willing to front him food and supplies. It’s a good thing, too. No chef in Iceland has had more of a profound impact on the country’s culinary evolution, reviving lost traditions and helping develop names for artisanal producers. In 2014, Gíslason, who now cooks in New York, moved the restaurant downtown into a restored old house that was more aligned with his original vision for the restaurant, and it quickly earned a Michelin star, the very first in the country. The tasting menus change often, sometimes daily, based on which ingredients are fresh and in season. The mostly natural wine pairing is far and above anything else in town. Despite being one of the top restaurants in all of Scandinavia, prices are still quite accessible.