The name suggests a certain airy elegance, and the cream-colored walls and light, starched tablecloths in this small room off the Piazza della Popolo deliver on the promise, but the menu is for the most part typically and deliciously Romagnolese. The kitchen is much respected for its cappelletti alla romagnola (cap-shaped pasta stuffed with ricotta, roasted pork loin, chicken breast, and nutmeg, and served with meat sauce) and other homemade pastas, including simple ravioli with butter and sage and risotto with fresh seasonal vegetables. Other specialties are cotoletta alla Bisanzio (a fried veal cutlet topped with cherry tomatoes and arugula) and a rich fish soup, but everything on the small menu is prepared with finesse and served with old-world flair that keeps a local clientele coming back.