It's popularity with tourists can mean that locals get a bit disdainful about this riverside place that's been serving upmarket classic north Portuguese food since 1992. However, if you want to eat Porto classics in an historic Ribeira setting and view over the Douro, it is hard to beat. Set in an old bacalhau warehouse, whose arched stone walls date back 400 years, its terrace and window seats look out over the river in the shadow of the Dom Luís bridge. The guest book includes signatures by presidents, pop stars and Nobel Prize winners—Fidel Castro and the Rolling Stones are both in there. Porto style tripe, several salt cod dishes and veal in red wine are all classics.  Remarkable wine list.