A prix-fixe dinner at this "New Northwest" eatery in the Hawthorne/Belmont neighborhood is always an adventure, with über-fresh ingredients prepared using cutting-edge techniques without sacrificing the most essential element: taste. Dishes like roasted lamb sweetbreads and creamy sturgeon-and-crab stew share menu space with imaginative, artfully prepared offerings like ribeye steak with caramelized mussels jus and oyster emulsion, and iced tea sipped through a straw made of candied peaches. The 10-course chef's tasting menu is worth the splurge (and a full evening to enjoy it), especially if you add the wine pairings, while the café next door is less expensive and is open for lunch.