Billy Reed's sprawling restaurant has been a Palm Springs institution since "Pearl Harbor Day, 1975," according to Mr. Reed. The menu is an accessible catch-all of reliable all-American classics (chicken, steaks, salads, burgers), somewhat like an upscaled-but-unfussy diner with big portions to match, but the décor must be seen to be fully appreciated. The style might be best described as a cross between an Old West bordello and a member's club—all for affordable prices. Three meals are served all day long, but the pies are most famous: The towering creations and are shown off by staff around the dining room, and few patrons can resist come dessert time. There are more than a dozen types, all made by Billy Reed, who, almost unbelievably, took a 25-year break from his distinctive landmark and only returned in 2012 because he missed making his grandmother's dessert recipes. Palm Springs is full of flash-in-the-pan places that are all about haute cuisine or scene-making, but this place, which is so uncool it's the coolest joint in town, has the devotion of retirees and locals. Bonus: There's also a subdued cocktail bar often, a live pianist on a grand piano.