Just about all Neapolitans rank this attractive center-of-town eatery as a favorite, and the walls covered with copper pots, framed photos, and oil paintings provide welcoming surroundings that suggest that dining here is serious business. Even connoisseurs claim the pizzas are some of the best in town, and if one of the large pies doesn’t suffice as a starter, choose from zuppa di cannellini e cozze (bean and mussel soup) or pasta e patate con provola (pasta and potatoes with melted local cheese). Seafood secondi are the house specialties and include ricciola all' acquapazza (a local species in a light tomato and herb broth) and stoccafisso alla pizzaiola (dried codfish in a tomato, garlic, and oregano sauce). Reservations are a must on weekends.