The heart-of-Naples neighborhood outside the huge portals can be gritty, but the piano nobile of the palazzo of the last bishop of the Bourbon kingdom, Cardinal Sisto Riario Sforza, is still sprucely regal. In guest rooms that surround a vast, fresco-smothered ballroom-cum-breakfast room, plush draperies and fabrics and a few antique pieces complement shiny hardwood floors and timbered ceilings. Larger rooms include small sitting areas and face the quiet courtyard, while many of the smaller, street-facing doubles share small terraces with the adjoining rooms.