Off the well-trodden tourist path, this is all you could ask for in a no-frills, down-home trattoria. The decor is simple, the ambience is happy, and it's always teeming busy with local workers who congregate in noisy crowds around the tables. Look for a vast selection of popular pasta dishes (spaghetti with clams or ravioli with marrow), but the highlights are the gigantic pizzas (anything from cheese and tomato margarita to diavolo soaked in chili) cooked in a wood-fired oven. Carafes of slightly fizzy red and white wines are served along with main courses and a homemade grappa makes its appearance with tiramisu or crème brûlée desserts. This homely little gem is worlds away from the smooth establishments in central Milan and all the better for it; it's been given a shot in the arm by the opening of the superb Biocity Hotel across the way. Go in more than once and you're practically one of the family.