Offering solid Italian fare at reasonable prices, this  popular trattoria (call at least a month in advance for dinner reservations) is conveniently located near the Duomo and centro storico. Aside from the trendy open kitchen and neon lettering on the wall, it’s laid out with plenty of cozy little corners, well suited for a romantic meal. Service is attentive. The seasonal menu changes frequently—seafood is a specialty—with creative twists on traditional dishes, such as risotto with chanterelles, pear, and taleggio cheese, or fresh tuna in a pistachio crust. The lunch menu, including main course, dessert, and beverage, is a steal at 9€.