Geared to business, as the city is, Milanese are more willing than Italians elsewhere to break the sit-down-meal tradition and grab a sandwich or other light fare on the run. And with so many students and young professionals underfoot, Milan has no shortage of pizzerias and other low-cost eateries alongside its world-class dining options.
Cafe & Gelato
Bar Zucca/Caffè Miani, at the Duomo end of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (tel. 02-8646-4435; www.caffemiani.it; Metro: Duomo), is best known by its original name, the Camparino. It's the most attractive and popular of the Galleria's many bars and holds the dubious distinction of having introduced Italy to what has become the country's ubiquitous red cordial, Campari, a viciously red liquid that tastes like hair tonic even when cut with soda water, as is traditional. You can sample one -- along with a selection of light dishes to wipe the taste off your tongue (as you might gather, I'm not a fan of the popular Campari-soda) -- while lingering at the tables set up in the Galleria with a bit of Duomo facade view, or in one of the Art Nouveau rooms inside.
For gelato, some of the best in the city can be found at Grom, Via S. Margherita 16 (tel. 02-80581041; www.grom.it) right by La Scala. I'm not a big fan of chain stores in any form (there is even one of these in New York), but if there is better old-fashioned gelato anywhere in northern Italy, I haven't tasted it yet.
Strollers in the atmospheric Brera neighborhood sooner or later stumble upon the Gelateria Toldo, Via Ponte Vetero 9 (tel. 02-8646-0863; Metro: Cordusio or Lanza), where the gelato is wonderfully creamy and many of the sorbetto selections are so fruity and fresh they seem healthy.
The Pasticceria Confetteria Cova, Via Montenapoleone 8 (tel. 02-600-0578; Metro: Montenapoleone), is nearing its 200th year in refined surroundings near the similarly atmospheric Museo Poldi-Pezzoli. It's usually filled with shoppers making the rounds in this high-fashion district. You can enjoy a quick coffee and a brioche standing at the long bar, or take a seat in one of the elegant adjoining rooms.
The Pasticceria Marchesi, Via Santa Maria alla Porta 13 (tel. 02-862-770; Metro: Cardusio), is a distinguished pastry shop with an adjoining tearoom. Since it's only steps from Santa Maria delle Grazie, you can enjoy the old-world ambience and a cup of excellent coffee (or one of the many teas and herbal infusions) as you dash off postcards of The Last Supper. You'll want to accompany your beverage with elegant pastries, perhaps a slice of the panettone (cake with raisins and candied citron) that's a hallmark of Milan. No one prepares it better than Marchesi. It's open Tuesday to Sunday 8am to 8pm.
