Sometimes, restaurants get it so right—from friendly and knowledgeable staff to unfussy surroundings (chalkboard, mirrors) to pure, clean, well-made food—that you wonder why they can’t all be this way. The menu, all choices a top value for the money, changes but the impeccable standards don’t: Frequent standouts include whole lemon sole with samphire (an edible coastal plant) and artichokes, Brecon lamb, Gloucester Old Spot pork, elderflower sorbet, a continuous trickle of fresh-baked breads, and an affordable wine list chosen with as much care as the fish and meat cuts. If there’s a downside, it’s that they only take reservations for lunch (noon–2:30pm), which means you risk missing out on dinner if you don’t come early. Or just sit at the tiny bar.