After a visit to Charlottetown and the island's central towns, Kings County comes as a bit of a surprise. It's far more tranquil and uncluttered than Queens County, and the landscapes feature woodlots alternating with corn, grain, and potato fields. Although locals play up this county's two largest commercial centers -- Souris and Montague -- it's good to keep in mind that each of these coastal hamlets has a population of less than 2,000. So don't arrive here expecting attractions to amuse and entertain you; you'll have to do that yourself.
Fortunately, this is prime cycling territory, and walks on the empty beaches are another good tonic for life. Long drives in the country, with occasional stops for eats or to snap photos, are usually the order of the day.
For the best scenery, follow the Points East Coastal Drive (tel. 902/961-3540), a 475km (298-mile) coastal route that hits most of the highlights. Check out the route online, pick up a free map and brochure at any Visitor Information Centre, or just follow the signs.
One way to enjoy the route is to plot your course for a spirited tour. Kings County is home to the province’s award-winning wineries and two distilleries. Rossignol Estate Winery on Route 4 (tel. 902/962-4193) at 11147 Shore Rd. in Murray River offers a panoramic view of Northumberland Strait; the winery has a wide array of table and fruit wines, as well as liqueurs and an art gallery. Rossignol’s strength is fruit wines like Blackberry Mead.
For grape wines, Matos Winery (tel. 902/675-9463) is a better choice. Jaimie and Heather Matos—originally from the Azores off Portugal—have won an armload of awards at large competitions, and continue to improve wines like Gamay Noir and chardonnay made from grapes best suited to the Maritime climate.
In Murray River at 2404 Gladstone Rd., Newman Estate Winery (tel. 902/969-6421) produces small-batch, white wine blends from estate grapes that have been well received.
Myriad View Artisan Distillery at 1336 Route 2 in Rollo Bay (tel. 902/327-2088) is known for “Strait Shine,” a spin on traditional PEI moonshine that was made during Prohibition days of icing sugar and molasses. This modern version is crafted from molasses and cane sugar to produce a high-proof distilled liquor. The distillery produces other spirits like rum, gin, and vodka. Free tours are available.
Award-winning Deep Roots Distillery at 2100 N York River Rd in Warren Grove (tel. 902/620-1085) is located on a 10-acre apple orchard and best known for the smooth, complex two-year aged brandy made from apples grown, pressed and fermented on-site. Take a tour to learn more about the distillation process and enjoy cocktails and beverages on-tap.
Remember that drivers can’t sample and drive; PEI has tough drinking and driving laws.
If you’re a lighthouse buff, there are several you won’t want to miss. Each has a unique story to tell, wonderful scenery, and its own magic. Top of the list are Wood Islands Lighthouse and Museum (tel. 902/962-3110) and East Point Lighthouse (tel. 902/357-2718). The museums here are full of fascinating flotsam and jetsam (literally, for the things that wash up after shipwrecks and otherwise are displayed) and the shops offer local arts, crafts, and memorabilia. At Wood Islands, learn about rum-running, phantom ships, ice boats, and much more. At East Point, there’s a reasonable cafe for small bites to enjoy outside at a picnic table.
Note that if you're heading to Kings County from Charlottetown, you'll pass right through Orwell and its historic sites en route. It's a worthwhile stop. For more information on Orwell, see the village's listings in the "Queens County" section.
