Frommer's Review
One of the "theatrical" restaurants (along with Marché, Nine, and others) that wowed Chicago when it opened in the mid-1990s, Red Light isn't quite the scene it once was. But the setting is still stunning: two dramatic dining rooms with deep-red walls, colorful lanterns, gently waving palm fronds, sensuously curved windows and ceilings, and chairs that could be mistaken for metal sculptures. (They're not very comfortable, but they do look cool.) Even more spectacular is the food. Chef Jackie Shen incorporates Chinese, French, Thai, and other Asian ingredients and cooking techniques. Curries and seafood entrees are the highlights, from a traditional Japanese tatsu curry to the crispy Shanghai-style whole catfish in red-vinegar-sweet-and-sour sauce. It's not on the menu, but the delicious "Hong Kong Jerry," named for the restaurant's owner, should not be missed: pepper-crusted beef chunks with mushrooms and vegetables in oyster sauce. You can also dig into traditional dishes such as pad thai or a modern version of kung pao chicken. And as befits a restaurant that's big on style, there's a fine selection of (expensive) specialty cocktails.
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