The lonely, often cold and foggy eastern edge of Cape Breton seemed like a strategic necessity to French forces in the early 18th century. From here, they thought, they would protect Atlantic fishing interests and, as importantly, the entrance to the St. Lawrence River and therefore the French-controlled cities of Québec and Montréal. Thus the stone stronghold of Fortress Louisbourg was conceived and built. In its heyday, it was North America’s third-busiest port behind Boston and Philadelphia, home port of over 60 fishing schooners and a fleet of some 400 shallops (two-masted open boats for daily inshore fishing ventures). After possession changed several times between France and England as wars waxed and waned, the British finally destroyed it in 1758. In the 1960s, Parks Canada began a long reconstruction of the fortress (and the town within) to 1744 condition using an army of archeologists and unemployed coal miners. It became North America’s largest reconstruction project.

Today, Louisbourg is a place to experience life inside a rough New World military stronghold. You arrive by boarding a bus at the interpretation center—no cars allowed near the fortress. As you climb down off the bus and are accosted by costumed guards, the illusion of entering a time warp begins. Farm animals peck and poke about. The smell of fresh baking drifts on salty air that might suddenly be shattered by the blast of a cannon or a round of musket fire. Soldiers march about and intimidate visitors who could be British spies. Children play the games of 3 centuries ago in the streets. Fishermen, servants, officers, and cooks greet guests at the doors of their respective homes and places of work. Meals in two period restaurants consist of rustic, historically accurate beef stew or meat pie sided by rum specifically made for the fortress. The site also had an authentic 18th-century bakery and a modern cafe.

If you want a more complete immersion, you can become a colonial French military student in training to fire the cannon or get your hands dirty as you help tend the medicinal and food gardens.

Twice-daily guided walking tours take about an hour and cost C$3.90; accessible tours are about 45 minutes and cost about double. Count on a full day here; check the website for numerous special events, and make time to taste the unique soldier’s bread baked fresh daily at the King’s Bakery, enjoy a sit-down meal at the Restaurant de la Marine, or have a picnic packed for you to enjoy anywhere on the property.
. [tel] 902/733-3552. Open year-round, 9:30am-5pm, daily May–Oct and Mon-Fri Nov-May.. Admission C$19.75 adult, C$16.75 seniors, children 17 and under free; 60% discounts in off-season.