Isolated and craggy Cape Breton Island -- Nova Scotia's northernmost land mass -- should be tops on a list of don't-miss destinations for travelers to Nova Scotia, especially those who like outdoor adventures or great views. The island's chief draw is Cape Breton Highlands National Park, a knockout park up at the top of the island's western lobe. There's also the historic fort at Louisbourg and scenic Bras d'Or Lake, an inland saltwater lake that nearly cleaves the island in two.
Above all, there are the drives: It's hard to find a road on this island that's not a scenic route. Some of the vistas are wild and dramatic, some green and pastoral, but all of them will have you clicking your camera furiously.
When traveling on this island, be aware of the cultural context. Just as southern Nova Scotia was largely settled by Loyalists fleeing the United States after England lost the War of Independence, Cape Breton was principally settled by Highlander Scots whose families came out on the wrong side of rebellions against the crown overseas. You can still hear their heritage here, both in the accents of people in the villages and in the great popularity of Scottish-style folk music throughout the island.
You'll often hear references to the Cabot Trail while on the island. This is the official designation for the 300km (186-mile) roadway circling around the northwest corner of the island and the national park. It's named for John Cabot, whom many believe first set foot on North American soil near Cape North. (However, many scholars disagree; it's not a fact, and Cabot may have made landfall on Newfoundland first. Or even somewhere else.)
The entry area at Port Hastings and Port Hawksbury across the Canso Causeway to the island is not an attractive place to stay—although there are motels on both sides of the water, if you need them. Instead, base yourself in Baddeck, which is centrally located and has a small concentration of lodgings and restaurants. You can reach both the national park and the historic settlement of Louisbourg from Baddeck, though both are long day trips. Alternatively, you’ll get more of an immersion in the culture and the scenery if you stay in accommodations along the way, or if you camp in the national park.
Oh, and one more thing: If you've got golf clubs and some game, bring 'em. The golfing is wonderfully scenic here -- but it's tough.
For your convenience, this section is divided into two parts: one on the bulk of Cape Breton Island, and then one on Cape Breton Highlands National Park itself. Geographically, though, the park is likely second on your itinerary: Most travelers enter the island, scoop up info, then make a beeline for lovely uplands areas in Mabou or the Margaree Valley for the night or to 9. Then, from either location, they head straight for the Cabot Trail, the winding, spectacular coastal road which passes in and out of the national park.
