Less than a 10-min. walk west of the train station, this three-star hotel is one of the most characterful lodgings in town. The 17th-century mansion, backed up against the 5th century ramparts, has two gorgeous inner courtyards where you can have your breakfast on warm days. Each of the rooms is individually decorated in simple, traditional style but fitted with all modern amenities; the one on the third-floor of the tower (no lift), under the rafters, is particularly charming. Original features, such as stone fireplaces and staircases, add to the bygone atmosphere. Book directly with the hotel and they'll throw in a free breakfast.