Eat here and most everything that passes your lips will have traveled no more than 100 miles to get there. Not that that limits the food in any way. Chef William Dissen is like an alchemist: Whatever he cooks turns to culinary gold. The menu is constantly changing based on what's freshest at the market, but revelatory recent dishes have included maple lacquered bacon with seared brussel sprouts, acorn squash and candied pecans; celery root and goat cheese ravioli sided by pickled radish, roasted beets and green salad; and a pork-on-pork double-header of grilled pork shoulder with house-made Italian sausage, tomato sauce, gigande bean ragout and kale. You can feel virtuous dining here: The restaurant, a mainstay of downtown Asheville since 1979, donates a good amount of money each year to local arts and education programs.