It's a challenge to adequately sum up a week-long road-trip in Alaska. Perhaps such a trip is best expressed in the feeling of elation I felt, leaving Anchorage behind and setting off on the long stretch of road that hugs Turnagain Arm. Or maybe it's the golden cliffs that enveloped my car like a natural tunnel outside Denali National Park. Or it could be the reindeer farm, a great surprise, that I passed near the University of Alaska. One thing is for sure: When traveling in Alaska, it's more about the journey than the destination.
Driving in the Lower 48 might often induce road rage, but in Alaska you're unlikely to encounter tail-gaters, rush-hour traffic, or drivers gunning it down the fast lane. And given the fact that there are only six major highways in all of Alaska's 600,000 square miles, it would take some serious effort to get lost. In the past, I've spent lengthy drives bored and longing for signs of civilization, but not here. In Alaska, the absence of distractions allows you to completely absorb the landscape and all its magnificent details. Driving in Alaska takes time (the state's twice the size of Texas, after all), but the scenery is so spectacular that you'll wish the roads were never-ending.
I recently took an independent tour through Gray Line of Alaska, which combined a rental car, accommodations, and excursions along the way. I was a bit apprehensive before my trip, envisioning winding, perilous roads up in the mountains. My fears turned out to be completely unwarranted: Alaska's highways are mainly flat, easy to drive, and, at the right time, there might be nothing but you and the open road.
The Seward Highway (Route 1 from Anchorage to Tern Lake, Route 9 from Tern Lake to Seward)
Alaska's Seward Highway is generally a two-lane road that takes about two and a half hours driving time. While the highway's southernmost point, the town of Seward, lies due south of Anchorage, the road winds its way down to the Kenai Peninsula. It's justifiably designated as a National Scenic Byway. There are plenty of stops for views (marked by a sign with a camera), good for taking a breather from driving and snapping a few pictures. You may find it tempting to stop at every scenic point along the way.
Despite beginning the trip in a relentless downpour, the Seward Highway was easily the most stunning road I have ever traveled. The road began by curving around Turnagain Arm, the body of water extending into the Cook Inlet, which separates the Kenai Peninsula from mainland Alaska. The highway was surrounded by the Chugach Mountains and alpine meadows, interspersed with the occasional waterfall. It was beautiful to watch the mist lifting off the terrain and the tiny slivers of cloud wrapped around the mountain peaks. After reaching the Kenai Peninsula, each side of the road became filled with purple fireweed. The rain slowed to a drizzle, and by the time I got to Seward, the sunlight was downright blinding. Seward and Resurrection Bay were flanked by mountains on all sides, with glacial islands and fjords appearing in the distance. The water reflected a pale green, and you may spot a sea otter or two bobbing in the water (the Seward Highway is also known for the Dall sheep that congregate right beside the highway at Turnagain Arm, but the rain kept them in hiding that day).
Seward was packed that day with fishermen in town for the yearly Silver Salmon Derby tournament (with a grand prize of $50,000). The mood of the fishermen at the boat harbor struck me as a reunion among old friends, and the friendly town, a jumping off point for glacier tours, was the perfect place to rest up before another day of driving.
The George Parks Highway (Route 3 from Anchorage to Fairbanks)
Be ready for a long haul when embarking on the Parks Highway: You'd be hard-pressed to make the drive Anchorage to Fairbanks in 7 hours. It's best to break it up into 2 days, with a stay at the eccentric little town of Talkeetna or at Denali National Park, where you can get up close to the highest mountain in North America.
This highway is most impressive for the diversity of terrain it covers. The beginning of the drive is unremarkable, passing by strip malls in the town of Wasilla, and a few fireworks stores and espresso huts. But just when I started to become wary, I rounded past the town of Willow and caught my first glimpse of Mount McKinley (known to Alaskans as Denali), which dominated the view even though it was still 100 miles away. The highway then snaked its way closer and closer to Mount McKinley before it turned again, traveling parallel to the east side of Denali National Park.
Surprisingly, the terrain became almost desert-like, carved along sand-colored stone mountains and through open, dusty land. Yet just 30 minutes later, the land was green again, filled with birches, aspen groves, and skinny pine trees. The recent film Into the Wild was filmed around these parts, and if you've seen it, you'll quickly recognize both the flourishing natural beauty and the feeling of being completely separated from the rest of the world.
While on the last leg of the trip, keep your eye out for the river town of Nenana, with its log cabins built for long winters (the town is famous for its yearly contest where people around the world guess the exact time when the river's ice will break). One of the trip's highlights came last, as the Parks Highway approached Fairbanks. The road seemed suspended above the wide expanse of the Chena Valley, with rolling hills in varying shades of green. Once I finally arrived in the city of Fairbanks, I rewarded myself by sampling the delightful Alaskan cranberry ice cream at Hot Licks (www.hotlicks.net).
It was a transient week, but I was consistently awestruck by whatever I saw outside my window throughout the many miles. It seemed to be the way Alaska was meant to be seen, with every day unveiling new sights, and the landscape ever-changing. From the glaciers on Kenai Peninsula, to Denali's vibrant wildlife, to the old abandoned gold-panning dredges around Fairbanks, the trip might seem to be a summary of Alaska's greatest hits. But I have a hunch that you will feel the same way, wherever your compass points you in Alaska: With every new turn, there's an exciting discovery ahead.
Accommodations
Seward's Edgewater Hotel (www.hoteledgewater.com) is, as the name implies, a waterfront hotel with a helpful staff and pretty atrium lobby. It's located just across the street from the Alaska SeaLife Center (an interesting, fun place for kids and adults), and some rooms have balconies overlooking Resurrection Bay. The hotel includes an art loop that features rotating local artists and a Jacuzzi with bay view. Note that this hotel is closed for renovations until March 2008.
Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge (www.talkeetnalodge.com) bills itself as a luxury wilderness lodge. It has several walking trails on the grounds, a quick shuttle to the town of Talkeetka, and a large deck with a straight-ahead view of Mount McKinley. I loved wiling the day away curled up with a book by the giant stone fireplace in the large, rustic lobby. One gripe: Given the high per-night rate, I found it a bit egregious that you had to pay extra for Internet access.
The Westmark Fairbanks Hotel (www.westmarkhotels.com/fairbanks), named one of Alaska's best hotels in Frommer's Alaska, is the classiest option in town. The hotel recently completed a $34-million expansion, and now has a smart, modern decor, decent gym, and popular bar. More than other accommodations, though, this place was jam-packed with tour groups -- a very common sight in Alaska.
Roadtrip Tips
Gas stations can be few and far between for long drives, so be sure to fill up when you see a gas station, even if your tank is half full. Locals often refer to highways by their names rather than numbers, so keep this in mind if asking for directions. Finally, I was warned several times that state troopers are serious about speed limits, so resist the urge to use a heavy foot on the gas pedal.
Carbon Offsetting
It's a pressing issue: How is it possible to experience Alaska's pristine beauty while preserving it for future travelers? (One alarming aspect of my trip was an 86-degree day in Fairbanks, only 100 miles from the Arctic Circle.) I chose to carbon-offset my flight and drive through Terrapass (www.terrapass.com). While it's not a panacea and its effectiveness is debated among scientists, you might see it as an option for balancing emissions that you are unable to reduce. Terrapass credits, which are tallied by the make of your vehicle and distance traveled per year, go toward supporting clean energy and efficiency projects.
Further Information
For more info on the tour I took and other tour options, check out www.graylineofalaska.com. More detailed descriptions of the highways mentioned here, along with other highways and gravel roads, can be found in Frommer's Alaska 2008.
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