Where's Johnny Jet: Drinking & Dining in Portugal's Douro Valley

Olá! Last week we left off in Porto, Portugal (here's the link to the archives). This week we finish our trip to this historic country by checking out the incredible Douro Valley. I had no idea how nice this part of the world is; now I know why it's a UNESCO world heritage site. If you want to come for the ride, bring your camera, Dramamine and some grape-picking clothes -- we're off to the mountains to make some vinho!

A Brief History of Port

It all started in 1678, after the British blockaded French ports when the two countries were at war. The British began importing wine from Portugal's Douro Valley. Back then Portugal's wine was dry, full-bodied, and had a high alcohol content. All that changed when the British added neutral brandy during fermentation to preserve it better for long boat trips. But adding brandy changed the natural fermentation process, and prevented the leftover grape sugar from turning to alcohol. That resulted in a sweeter, fruitier wine that is now usually enjoyed as an apéritif or after-dinner wine. For a detailed history of Port, click here.

The Douro Valley

The 560-mile Rio Douro (River of Gold) begins in northern-central Spain, and flows to its outlet in Porto, Portugal. Along the way the river runs through the Douro Valley. The "gold" here is the grapes that grow on 617,000-plus acres of some of the most spectacular quintas (wine-producing farm complexes) I've ever seen. Most quintas lie on almost completely vertical slopes; the land is said to be the toughest to cultivate in the world. In the old days farmers used the river to transport their wine to the cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia (located across from Porto -- we visited there last week). Because Porto was a major port city, and this is where they shipped it from, "Port wine" gained its name. The farmers also used the mountain railroad, but today there are excellent highways so they use trucks. The jaw-dropping Alto Douro region has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site (here's the link), because the region has produced wine for almost 2,000 years and its landscape has been molded by human activities (see this UNESCO link for more criteria). The Douro Valley is a perfect place for growing grapes, cherries and olives. They are also some almond and cork trees. The weather is hot and dry in the summer, cold and wet in winter. Once you drive over the Serra do Marão mountain range, the weather changes instantly. Thanks to humid air, fertile soil and schist rock to keep the fruit warm at night, grapes thrive here. The next time you see a bottle of wine labeled "vinho do Porto," you'll know it was created right here in the Douro Valley.

Getting There

There are several ways to reach the Douro Valley from Porto, 90 km (56 miles) away. One is by boat, but nine locks make for a long ride. There is also a mountain train, which takes 2 hours and 20 minutes to reach the 130-year-old Pinhão railway station. If you take the train, be sure to stop and notice the 100 or so ornate blue tiles that depict different scenes of local port production on the outer walls of the station. The Douro Valley claims to have more than 25,000 wine makers. From the railway station, one of the closest (1.8 km = 1.1 mile) is the one I visited: Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo. It lies across the river and up a hill -- about a 10-minute taxi ride away. The fastest and most expensive ($360 per person) way from Porto is by helicopter -- it takes only 25 minutes (Douroazul.pt). But most people drive to the Douro Valley, which is what I did. I was fortunate to be on a private tour with one of Portugal's best official guides. Helena Baltazar gives private tours all over Portugal, in Portuguese, French or English. Rates vary; contact her at helena.baltazar@clix.pt or tel. 351-917572555.

Incredible Views

If you get motion sickness, be sure to sit in the front seat or take Dramamine, because the last half of the 2-1/2-hour ride gets hairy. If you're afraid of heights -- close your eyes. However, doing that is a huge mistake, because these narrow roads at an elevation of 1,000 feet (without guardrails) have some of the best views I've ever seen. I think the vistas rival Zermatt, Switzerland (here's the link) -- and that's saying a lot. Just look at the pictures we snapped when we pulled off to the side of the road! Nearby lived a friendly elderly lady who insisted that we sample her grapes (it was harvest time, and the entire side of her house had bins full of red and green grapes). Oooh, were they good -- and walking on the street right afterward, everything felt so alive. The sun was shining, the bees were buzzing, and the grapes were ready to be crushed. I couldn't wait to start picking those bad boys myself.

Cork Trees

On our exciting ride to Quinta Nova we pulled off to the side of the road again when Helena spotted a pile of cork. She said that cork is the bark of the cork oak tree, and Portugal produces nearly half of the world's commercial corks. Here's an article on how cork is produced, and another one on Portugal's cork industry.

A New Wine Hotel

After another long, winding road we were high in the upper Douro Valley, in the parking lot of the Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo estate. Quinta Nova dates back to 1758 when the first vineyard was planted. The wine cellar has some history too. It was built in 1764, the same year as the estate's baroque chapel. The estate covers 120 hectares (296 acres) of breathtaking rolling hills. They became even more appealing in June 2005, when the estate opened the luxury Hotel Rural Burmester. All 11 immaculately clean rooms are decorated in 18th-century style, using local materials like slate and cork. This wine-focused hotel includes breakfast and wine baths in its rates, which begin at 75€ ($95). There are also walking and biking trails, and the hotel prepares picnic baskets. Guests who come at this time of year can help harvest, too!

The Harvest

Harvesting grapes was the highlight of my trip to Portugal. Our group was given white Quinta Nova T-shirts, a black bucket, and orange-handled scissors. We piled in the back of a pickup truck like 8th graders, and were off to even higher ground. If I had had any idea where we were headed, I probably would have walked. Seriously, even those with no fear of heights would be spooked. We went up a single, one-way bumpy dirt road with the gnarliest turns that had everyone (including me) screaming. You'd scream too if you faced a 3,000-foot drop. But if I was going to be taken from this world, it would not have been the worst way to go. At least I was among new friends and beautiful women; the sky was clear, the sun was warm, and the views -- well, they were to die for. When we reached the top we saw farmers of all ages enjoying their work. They chatted easily with each other, wearing wide smiles, as they breezed up and down the rows of ripe grapes. Our task was to help them until we filled a couple of larger bins, placed strategically alongside the road for easy pickup.

A Factory Tour and Lunch

Half an hour later we drove down the back side of the steep hill (I'm not sure which way was worse). Safely at home base, we toured the distillery. This was not your standard 30-minute wine tour -- instead, we sampled wines during the different stages of the fermenting process. We skipped the formal wine tasting at the end, because we enjoyed those same bottles over an authentic Portuguese lunch at the hotel restaurant. The food was made fresh from local ingredients (sorry, no pictures -- my camera battery died), but trust me: It was delicious. Hotel Rural Burmester, Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, 5085-222 Covas do Douro, Pinhão, Portugal; tel. 351-254-730-430.

Hotel Rural

Forty kilometers (25 miles) away, on the south bank of the Douro Valley, I found myself checking into the Hotel Rural Viscondes da Várzea. Finding this 180-hectare (444- acre) family estate would be a challenge without a local driver. It's off the beaten path; just a small sign reads "Hotel Rural," with an arrow. At the end of that road, the estate's gated entrance takes visitors down a long driveway past the family vineyards, fruit orchards and olive trees. Hotel Rural is a 37-bedroom house with a great story. Maria Manuel Cyrne grew up in this 17th-century noble house with her family. In 1975 her family sold the house and property to Seagrams. Maria was devastated. She then fell in love with her first cousin, and married him without her family's blessings. She had no children, because she feared they would have genetic problems. She opened a boutique, and when Seagrams put the estate back on the market a few years ago she bought it back to fulfill a lifelong dream. Her other was having healthy children -- and she finally had twins. They are now 4 years old, and live in the house. Maria asked me to pass along her story, to inspire other people to live their dreams. What is even more interesting is that everything in the house is for sale -- and I mean everything. She decorated the place from her store, and it's delightfully tacky. You can lift up the salt shaker at dinner, and see what it costs. The staff are young, friendly and strong suburbanites. Two of the girls insisted on carrying three people's bags (see the video below). The first room I was in, off the main house, was a little musty. But I was quickly moved to the main house, and the staff placed humidifiers in the other room to clear it up. The highlight -- besides sitting on the veranda overlooking the marvelous grounds while checking emails using free wireless -- was the incredible meals. I felt like I was at my Italian grandmother's house during the holidays. All the meals here are traditional Portuguese dishes like feijão frade com atum (beans with tuna) or farinheira and chouriço e morcela (typical Portuguese sausages). Room rates start at 95€ ($120) during the week. Hotel Rural Viscondes da Várzea, Várzea de Abrunhais, 5100-878 Lamego; tel. 351-254- 690020.

Amarante

On my way back to the coast to get ready for my next country, we stopped at some interesting Portuguese towns. One was Amarante, 56 km (39 miles) east of Porto. This historic town was founded in 360 B.C. In 1790 an impressive bridge was built over the Tâmega River. On the other side of the bridge is a 5-star Relais & Chateaux hotel, Casa Da Calcada. The front overlooks the church of São Gonçalo, while the back boasts views of the outdoor pool adjacent to vineyards. For more info, log on to Casa Da Calcada or see this Amarante guide.

Guimaraes

Another town was Guimarães -- Portugal's first capital. The old quarter (which is also a World Heritage Site) is definitely worth a tour. The city has cobblestone streets, a 14th century church, and -- get this -- free wireless internet and free cable TV. How do you like that for old meeting new? We ate lunch at Restaurante Vira-Bar, where we enjoyed rodovalho, robalo and dourada (Brill, Sea Bass, gilthead bream) and posta à barrosã (very rare steak). Restaurante Vira-Bar, Largo Condessa, Juncal, 27, Guimarães; tel. 351-253-518-427. More info on Guimarães.

Braga

Another city worth visiting is Braga. Braga is considered the second most important city in northern Portugal (after Porto), because it's the only one in Portugal with an archbishop. (That's why it's called "The City of Archbishops.") The most important historical monument in the city is the Sé de Braga (Braga Cathedral), built between the 12th and 18th centuries. The 155,000 citizens also enjoy walking past many other historical monuments, like Fonte do Ídolo (Idol's Fountain), which dates from the 1st century A.D., or the Tower of Braga Castle. There are many more sights (including places to shop); here's a link to help find them.

Barcelos

Barcelos is a small town famous for its weekly market, which has been held on Thursdays since the 13th century. The outdoor market is Portugal's largest -- and among Europe's largest as well. You'll find everything here, from clothes, household items, fruits, vegetables, bread and pastries to ducks, chickens, and of course souvenirs. The most popular items for tourists are pottery and the Barcelos cockerel -- the most widely-recognized symbol of Portugal. A 13th-century legend describes how the rooster became so popular, and a symbol of good luck. Supposedly a pilgrim on his way to Santiago de Compostela, Spain stopped in Barcelos, and was wrongly accused of stealing. Before the Pilgrim was hung he told the judge that to prove his innocence, the roasted hen he was about to eat would get up and cluck. It did, and he was freed. Of course, I bought some wooden roosters for Christmas presents. For more info on Barcelos.

International Cell Phone

That does it for this week. But before I finish, let me answer the most popular question I get each week. Many people ask what phone service I use when I am abroad. I travel with my laptop, and try to use Skype as much as possible (more info on Skype). But I always bring my international (GSM) cellular phone, because I'm always on the go (Skype requires a computer and internet connection). Most U.S. cell phone companies don't even have GSM tri-band phones, and the ones that do (like T-Mobile) charge way too much for incoming and outgoing calls. Instead of paying their high rates, save money and get your own GSM phone. It's not expensive, and there are a couple of options. Renting is one, but it's not worth the cost down the road if you plan on traveling internationally again in the next couple of years. I got my razor phone from Cellular Abroad. Before I leave for overseas, they send me a local SIM (Subscriber Information Module) chip for the place I'm headed to. I insert the chip into the phone, where it serves as the brain (it contains such information as the cell phone number, voice mail and call logs). The SIM gives me a local number, so no one needs to dial long distance to reach me. Best of all, when my friends and family back home call, it's free. That's right: All incoming calls are free in most countries! Another huge plus is that when I call them, it costs me no more than half what a U.S. cell company would charge. Beyond the savings, there is convenience -- plus the security of having a reliable cell phone. It's nice to be able to access, or be accessible from home, wherever I am with one simple phone call. Cellular Abroad is kind enough to offer a $10 discount to all Johnny Jet visitors. Be sure to mention Johnny Jet when ordering over the phone (800/287-3020) or online (CellularAbroad.com).

Video

Here's a 2-minute Johnny Jet Video of my trip to Portugal. Here's a link to all JohnnyJet videos ever made. With high-speed the video loads in about one minute; with dial-up, it could be three weeks.

Next Week

Next week we hit España!

Happy Travels,

Johnny Jet

Please tell us what you think of this week's newsletter!

Web Resources

• Alto Douro WHS
• Amarante Guide
• Barcelos Guides
• Braga Guide
• Casa Da Calcada
• Cellular Abroad
• Douro Entry on Wikipedia
• Europe For Visitors
• Helicopter to Douro
• History of Port
• Hotel Rural Burmester
• Hotel Rural Viscondes da Várzea
• Guimarães Guide
• Porto Portugal Weather
• Portugal's Cork Industry
• Skype
• UNESCO
• A Word About Cork

John E. DiScala (aka Johnny Jet), is the founder of www.johnnyjet.com, the ultimate travel website and weekly newsletter. He logs over 150,000 miles a year, has been featured in over 850 articles (including Frommers.com, USA Today, Time, Fortune, the New York Times, CNBC and MSNBC), and has published the book, You Are Here Traveling With JohnnyJet.com.

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