October 8, 2004 -- The Japanese didn't invent the art of bathing (that was something the ancient Romans can take credit for), but they certainly have perfected it. Hot spring bathing first became popular in Japan more than 1,000 years ago. Originally only for aristocrats, and then warlords, its popularity soon spread throughout the country with accessibility for all.
Nowhere is the experience of taking a bath so celebrated, ritualized and revered as in the cities and regional areas of Japan -- even the gaijin (foreigners) are encouraged to participate. Most traditional hot springs, onsen, now have separate male and female bathing areas, but you can still find some that have mixed bathing -- some require bathing suits but most don't.
Japan's misfortune of sitting on one of the most thermally active areas of the world does come with an upside -- thousands of natural hot springs scattered across the country, some set in landscapes with breathtaking views.
Fall and winter are the perfect seasons to visit Japan, especially if a visit to an onsen is on the itinerary. The fall displays the magnificent splendor of Japan's foliage in a kaleidoscope of reds, golds and oranges. The days are mild and sunny with cool evenings, just right for a relaxing dip in a thermal bath. Winters can be quite crisp and cold with snow in the central and northern regions, although the southern island of Kyushu remains mild.
Getting There
Direct roundtrip flights to Japan (Tokyo) from Los Angeles start at $503 plus taxes or $653 plus taxes from New York on United through Cheap Flights (www.cheapflights.com) between now and February 28, 2005. A minimum stay of six days is required with a maximum stay of 30 days. Valid on selected dates only.
Japan Travel Advisor (800/633-9350; www.japantravel.com) has roundtrip airfares to Japan from various US cities through the fall and winter including:
- Las Vegas or Phoenix $520
- Los Angeles or San Francisco $600
- New York/Boston $650
- Chicago $710
- Miami $730
Gate1 Travel (800/682-3333; www.gate1travel.com) has a seven-day "Tokyo Independent" package, which includes roundtrip airfare from Los Angeles, five-nights accommodation at a first-class hotel, and breakfast daily. Prices start at $878 plus taxes for an October 28, 2004 departure, $899 for a November 11 or 25, 2004 departure or $979 for a December 23, 2004 departure. Their seven-day Kyoto package starts at $999 plus taxes. These prices represent a discount for cash payments. Limited departure dates. Additional departure cities are available
Travel In Style (888/466-8242; www.travelinstyle.com) has an eight-day "Japan Onsen Experience," which features tours of Tokyo, Kyoto, Hakone and Nara, two days at the Kinugawa Hot Springs and a visit to Mt Fuji. Kinugawa Hot Springs is one of Japan's major spa centers with idyllic outside pools nestled near the pristine Nikko mountains. The tour also includes airport transfers, hotel pick-ups, seven-nights accommodation including taxes and service charges, ground transportation including a roundtrip on the bullet train, tours, entrance fees, and four meals. Rates per person based on double occupancy are $1,790 with daily departures (with some exceptions) from January 7, 2005.
Several tour companies including Jalpak (www.jalpak.com/e/tours/jp_rail_pkg/onsen_experience.shtml) and Japan Travel (www.japantravel.com/vjf710.htm) have Onsen Experience over-night packages which include rail transportation from Tokyo on the Shinkansen (bullet train) to the station nearest your onsen choice, accommodation in a deluxe hotel, and access to your hotel's onsen. Meals may or may not be included, Prices vary depending on your destination but prices start at as little as $90. Additional nights start at $70. The train system in Japan is excellent and trains can deliver you to the doorstep of hundreds of onsen throughout the country.
Finding an Onsen
If you decide to rent a car in Japan or just travel by train and just play it by ear, you can easily find hot springs dotted throughout the country. There is a national road sign that makes their identification simple -- just look out for a red sign with a stylized image of steaming water. Even if you can't read Japanese, it will point you in the right direction and provide the distance to the closest onsen.
My Guide Japan (www.myguidejapan.com) has listings of onsen and ryokan (Japanese Inns) by regions or cities, including details of amenities, accommodation styles and pricing. So too does Outdoor Japan (www.outdoorjapan.com/section-onsen.html) and Japanese Guest Houses (www.japaneseguesthouses.com). Prices do vary as onsen can range from humble centers with a handful of outdoor pools (rotemburo), to massive complexes with indoor/outdoor Olympic size swimming pools of thermal water. Most have lodging on site, either in the form of a hotel or resort or a more traditional ryokan. In general your accommodation cost will include meals and more importantly access and full use of the onsen, with prices ranging from $90-$300 per day.
Although most onsen do not have their own websites (at least not in English), you can get information about their services and make reservations through the websites listed above.
On the Izu peninsula, south of Tokyo, you will find the Atami onsens, among the oldest and most popular in Japan. Shuzenji Onsen and Rendaiji have particular old-world charm. At the foot of Mt Fuji, Hakone is a beautiful day-trip from Tokyo and Yokohama, so onsen are often very crowded. There are literally dozens of onsen to choose from in this area, some with spectacular views of Mt Fuji. In the Kôbe & ôsaka areas, Arima Onsen is a popular locale. On the south island of Kyushu, Beppu is considered Japan's hot springs capital. From classic outdoor rock-carved baths, jungle baths and even sand baths (where you get buried up to your neck in hot sand), there is something to suit all tastes and budgets. On the north island of Hokkaido are the Jôzankei, Noboribetsu and the lakeside onsen of Tôya-ko and Shikotsu-ko.
Etiquette
Like most things Japanese, etiquette is extremely important in the onsen environment. The first thing to remember is that the Japanese bath is not for cleaning but for relaxing. Before one enters a bath, one is expected to be clean, so small stools to sit or lean on and shower stalls are usually provided along with soap, scrubbing brushes and shampoo. Small "decency" towels are provided (although these are rarely bigger than a face cloth) so you should consider bringing your own from your hotel room. Kimonos and slippers are also provided. It is best to watch what others are doing and follow their example. Onsen staff may also provide you with instructions. If the idea of being nude in front of other people does not sit comfortably with you, you should definitely choose an onsen that specifies its dress regulations (or lack thereof) clearly.
For more information about planning your trip to Japan, visit www.frommers.com/destinations/japan and www.jnto.go.jp/eng.
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